If you're taking requests - I want to do a short-row heel instead of the flap & gusset type that I've always done - but I have no idea how to do it. I'll be searching tonight for tips, but if you have any, I would love to hear them!
I do have some suggestions!
A typical short-row heel is fairly simple. You start with approximately 50% of the total stitches in the sock, and work back and forth, turning one stitch earlier each row, employing the gap-closing method of your choice, until you're down to the number of stitches you want at the base of the heel, and then you continue working, going one stitch further before turning on each row, so you're picking up one of the left-behind stitches and completing your gap closure on that stitch, until you're back to the number you started the heel with, and then you continue working in the round on the remainder of the sock.
That's the basic idea; there are still a few details to be worked out.
First, you need to decide how many stitches you're going down to at the base of the heel. This is going to depend in no small part on the foot you're fitting; narrower heels will need fewer stitches, which means more short rows to get there. You'll almost certainly want to go to at least 1/2 of the heel stitches; I have narrow heels, and like to continue until I've got only 1/3 of the heel stitches still active. Priscilla Gibson-Roberts, in her book Simple Socks, Plain & Fancy, which is all about short-rowed heels and toes, recommends 20% of the total sock stitches, which is probably a good default if you don't know that the recipient has particularly wide or narrow heels.
Second, short-row heels are somewhat shallower than flap-and-gusset heels. Some people find them comfortable anyway; others like to compensate for that by using 60% of the foot stitches to turn the heel, rather than 50%, which gives you a somewhat deeper heel. If you do this, you'll want to figure your heel base number as 1/4, 1/5, or 1/6 of the total stitches, not 1/2, 2/5, or 1/3 of the heel number you're currently using. I'm not fond of this personally, but it's something to keep in mind; you may wish to experiment.
One effect of the shallower heel is that if you have a patterned leg, it tends to pull the pattern at the back down into the shoe. I'd suggest compensating for this by having an ankle section as well as a leg section, another trick picked up from PGR. To have an ankle section, you have a plain section, with no patterning, between the leg patterning and the point at which you start the heel turn; PGR suggests making this a number of rows equal to 20% of the number of stitch in the leg at this point. If you've got patterning on the leg only, simply stop it above the ankle section and do the ankle in plain stockinette; if your patterning continues down to the top of the foot, stop the patterning on those stitches which will become the heel, and continue it on the front section, through the ankle and down to the foot. I think if you do this, you'll find that it compensates for what it is about the shallow heel that some find annoying, and you won't need to go up to 60% of the stitches for the heel turn.
If you're converting a flap-and-gusset-heel pattern, I'd do the pattern as written down to the point where the heel flap starts. From there, I'd do your ankle section; you'll be doing the back half plain and the front half as directed for the instep stitches in your pattern after picking up the gussets and returning to knitting in the round, for a number of rows equal to 20% of your total stitches. You'll then do your short row heel, leaving the instep stitches idle, and then resume at the point where you left off for the instep stitches, and work the sole stitches plain, without decreases. For the toe, you can do it as written in the pattern, or you can work a short row toe on half the stitches; this is done exactly the same way as a short-row heel, usually going down to half the toe stitches (1/4 of the total), and back up to the number you started with, and then the toe stitches are grafted to the other half of the foot stitches. A short-row toe is usually somewhat shallower than a wedge toe, so you'll want to calculate how many stitches you'll be reducing, which will be the same as the number of rows to the tip of the toe, and use your row gauge to determine how much distance that will cover, which will tell you how far from the end of the foot to start your toe. That's a lot of text, but I think you'll find it a fairly simple process when you've got it actually on the needles.